Αποκριές

Decorations at the Entrance to the Castro

Tomorrow is the first day of Lent (καθαρή δευτέρα) according to the Orthodox calendar, so this meant that today (and especially tonight) was Carnival (Αποκριές). Our teacher Fani told us in class on Friday that Carnival is traditionally not a Greek custom but was imported from the West, especially from the Venetians. In Greece, the biggest carnivals are in Patra and on Corcyra but from my experience in the town tonight, Ioannina is a rather wonderful place to celebrate the Αποκριές as well. I remember many carnivals from my childhood when I often went to see the parades with my brother and my grandparents in the Catholic south of the Netherlands and a similar festive atmosphere was to be felt around the city tonight. An amazing array of excellent costumes was to be seen; there were jailbirds, a giant four-person caterpillar, nuns, Vikings, Asterix and Obelix, a terrifying ghoul who I captured on film, a fetching Red Riding Hood wearing a garter, but by far the most popular disguise seemed to be that of a clown.

This goodly ghoul was kind enough to strike a pose!

I went around with my delightful Bulgarian friend Bobby who kindly let me borrow her mask and we visited two bonfires, one inside the old castle and one near the stadium. At both there was clarinet music and children dancing all wonderfully decked out. When I saw all these dressed up children dancing around a bonfire to sweeping clarinet music, I felt very clearly the pagan rhythms still pulsing in the Greek festive tradition. A magical experience!

At the Bonfire inside the Castro

The παππούδες got the best seats (I loved the black cauldron too!)

Bonfire inside the Castro




Bonfire near the Γήπεδο

Sparks from the Bonfire